While admiring the grandeur of Neuschwanstein Castle I meet up with an American GI based in Kaiserslautern off on a bit of Bavarian R&R. He introduces himself as Joe, of all things, GI Joe, and we both have a chuckle. We get to talking then sneak off around the corner of the castle keep to a remote spot for a joint followed by a pint of lager at a nearby bistro. He’s on his way to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, a gorgeous alpine resort nestled at the base of the Zugspitze,